The total of men have only the table - level Swiss watch brand logo Category comprehensive knowledge

Mechanical watch from a watch called the Kingdom of both Switzerland and the high price (thousand dollars to 10 million), but the ultimate process of its precision, complexity theory, ingenious structure, high status for thousands of years to still be replaced. Swiss mechanical watch as signs of human civilization and wisdom knot fine works of art, showing the ultimate human quest for perfection and excellence in the dedication praised as the most valuable inventions in human history one of ten. When you watch a mechanical watch hundreds of tiny parts in different ways to run, you will marvel not only the wisdom of mankind's most fantastic. Swiss mechanical watch by most developed countries as "life will always be a carry-over of fine objects." Now see most of the top brand watches (such as PatekPhilipe, VacheronConstantin, jaeger, etc.) have experienced the Second World War in order to lay a solid foundation, a turbulent period of World War II experienced the war ... the importance of time as Washington, a famous saying, "We The reason why the army invincible, as we battle every five minutes earlier than the enemy to reach the battlefield. " Switzerland to "permanently neutral" status and no regular army after the tumultuous style, so it can be passed a unique clock technology has been included in the heritage of world civilization.

1. mechanical origin and value of the table:

about 1920 in England, the watch maker Johns Huafa Ming created the prototype of the modern automatic watches, automatic watches, it laid the foundation for the development of the industry. But he is not the first to manufacture automatic watches. Back in 1770 there were Swiss, 路易伯勒雷 automatically create linked tables first. As the hand, there are very few, difficult to see at the flea market. Because it is the predecessor of the modern automatic watch and birthplace. Thus the Swiss watch industry and therefore known masterpiece.

Swiss watch industry of world-class reputation in large part from its stable quality, structure and function of complex, precise, durable, fine polished, carved. Another generation with the wisdom and sweat on behalf of Carpenter won the honor for the successor of the Swiss watch industry is, of course, important if the treasure, treasure the more arch Bi. For this reason, the Swiss watch industry, the brand and origin of the use of signs attached great importance to make famous brand effect and the "Swiss made" appeal complement each other, to provide consumers with the best quality assurance.

mechanical movement due to the performance of different structures vary, each costing the structure of superior mechanical watches have to undergo a rigorous basis, the movement over 100 rests with hundreds of tiny metal parts or even close combination. Metal parts to reduce wear and improve the mechanical stability of the operation, each part must use tiny superior precision grinding of metal materials and have been made, the movement of bearing all the important gear necessary to use high quality natural ruby mosaic, each costing mechanical machine core for at least 17-21 pieces using natural ruby bearings (complex movement up to 50 satellites). To enhance the value of mechanical watch, Swiss watch brands and has been part of the self-developed high-precision, complex functions of a table, a special metal (such as platinum, gold, titanium, etc.) as materials and fine grinding of metal parts by hand, three-dimensional sculpture or a variety of stripes and openwork patterns.

Double Tourbillon movement



2. Swiss watch Common Tags:

Swiss - Swiss Made

Swiss movement - mouvement suisse or Swiss movement

Switzerland bracelet - bracelet suisse

Swiss watch box - Swiss case

Swiss Original - Swiss parts (using the original movement for the Swiss industry, while the assembly completed abroad)

Swiss machinery - Swiss Automatic

Swiss quartz - Swiss Quartz

automatic quartz watch - Auto Quartz

Observatory show - Chronometer

daily with water - WATER RESIST (to prevent rain water or water droplets, not apply to swimming, diving, etc.)

enhanced water - WATER RESIST 10BAR or 100m, etc. (per 10BAR = 100 meters, and so on)

17 stone (ruby) movement - 17 jewels (21 stone = 21jewels, and so on)

3. Swiss movement manufacturer:



ETA: the world's largest finished products, semi-finished movement manufacturers, the most famous Swiss movement brand manufacturers, mainly high-end production of the various levels of mechanical movement. Dubois-Depraz: specializing in the production of complex features mechanical movement of the company. ISA: Main production quartz watch movement manufacturers. Lemania: professional mechanical movement factory, products are from low-end to the top. (Now merged and Breguet watch factory, not for movement outside) Frederic piguet: Swiss manufacturer of high mechanical core. Ronda: dominated by quartz movement. Soprod: production of low-end mechanical movement manufacturer. ETA2893 movement chart



4. common watch movement types:



1, Automatic mechanical movement

general reference and starting power of a watch box storage. The beginning of all the power to send forces from the springs tightened to the second fan car, San Francisco, four-car fan, car fan 5 (escape wheel), clamp and then to swing round, and then swing round reaction to the messenger, so that The restoration of the location before, so to be able to process the entire cycle of operation, continued to gain momentum. Machine table can be divided into the hands of chain and automatic chain two.



A. hand-winding movement:

leading by staff rotation, drive on the chain and then in the winding on the full chain.

B. self-winding movement:

driven by the swing arm swing back and forth automatically set to achieve the automatic effect of a wound.

2, Quartz quartz movement

refers to watches, batteries and quartz oscillator used to calculate and display the time, its movement is manufactured by the frequency of quartz is now commonly divided into Analog and digital quartz watch quartz watch, the greatest characterized by precise, in the normal temperature range, the monthly error is about + - within 15-20 seconds.



A. Analog quartz movement:

use battery power to produce the frequency of quartz, then using IC board divider and control coil and magnetic car, and turn it to promote the gear indicator, the time, the minute hand is basically electrically driven.

B. Digital quartz movement:

basic principles and the same Analog quartz watch, but it does not gear train, and direct to liquid crystal film (LCD) to display the time.

3, solar movement

solar cells is the use of high purity silicon wafers made of silicon through a special deal that formed two very thin layer, when the sun or light exposure to the silicon surface, will be able to light energy into light and light current voltage. Current flow from the solar cell of high voltage to low voltage to charge the watch battery. In order to prevent the inflow of solar watches the voltage is too high, an internal diode and resistor to act as a buffer to protect the watch battery and life.

4, AUtO-QUartz automatic quartz movement

it is automatically the table with a combination of quartz watches, its power comes from the wearer's swing arm automatic disk drive table rotation, the kinetic energy generated by the system of micro-power generation within the motor into energy for the quartz device table to provide adequate electricity, the excess energy stored up will be micro-capacitors. This mechanical energy into electrical energy using the design, after today's technology continues to improve, the full of energy, sustainable operation of up to several days. Automatic quartz watch on the table combined with automatic chain of convenience and precision quartz watch, and without the use of batteries, more environmentally friendly, more and more brands have already made this type of watch.



5, SpringDriVe human kinetic movement

SElKO group from Japan published in 1998 Spring Drive technology, most of the structure is identical with the mechanical watch, but the core of the mechanical watch escapement structure of a part is used quartz oscillator's structure, so some people think it should belong to quartz watch is, strictly speaking Spring Drive technology actually be a derivative design mechanical watches, quartz oscillator and magnetic car because of Spring Drive in the above is as "brake" effect , timing components of the driving force remains from the winding box, provided by the quartz oscillator signal to the magnetic vehicle for continuous point release of the action to contain the second hand, so with Spring Drive Technology watch, mechanical watch as the second hand is as a little step, and also because of the frequency quartz oscillator as the core, so although regarded as mechanical watches, but have a month + - 15 seconds of high precision, mechanical watches are made is less than the place.

5. frequently grinding process

1. Geneva stripes 2. fish scale pattern 3. carvings

4. Paris nail pattern 5. the sun pattern 6. the wave pattern

7. pearl dot pattern 8 . Basic polished







6. Geneva, Switzerland imprint

Geneva Seal is made under the 1886 "Geneva law" of the word. "Geneva law" is intended to protect the real production of watches in Geneva, so as not to other parts of fish in order to inferior products bearing the name "Geneva made" marked to sell. Made so far, has gone through several revisions to meet the changing times. Who meet the standards movement watches will be eligible for Geneva seal, flag badges stamped with the Geneva's 'Eagle' and 'key' shield-shaped logo. "Geneva law" provisions of each part of the movement need to be completed in accordance with established rules and regulations, although some parts may be purely decorative, but can fully reveal the watches totally dependent on artificial completed. Such as acute angle must be cut into slope for all, and then by grinding light; activities of gear to be subject to modification and artificial boxwood polished bright. The original enactment of this rule is to remove all inferior products to ensure that every one watches are the most superior skills, technology and materials. Today, this rule has become the watch to ensure the highest production of art.

* Geneva Seal 12 rules:

1. the movement of all parts, including the addition of mechanical devices, the technology must meet the stringent requirements of Rule 12 and subject to sample testing. All steel parts of the edge must be polished, smooth cut surface, the screw head to grinding or after rounding, and all of the visible edge of the slot to go to corner.

2. movement be fixed on the inlaid with rubies, well-polished car with ratchet winding device, the ruby Socket require fine grinding. Form part of the bridge, subject to semi-precious stones mirror handle, Socket polished smooth, the bottom of the central round stones, not within the limit.

3. balance springs must be ring-necked, with the first piece bolt sliding seat fixed to adjustable screw bolt can be.

4. fixed or rotating finger-type scale may be marked on the fixed device; slim unless the movement.

5. balance rotating the conditioning variable rate required to meet these two requirements.

6. winding part of all the gear to go to corner, drive ring polished. Only less than or equal to 0.15mm thickness of the gear,replica handbags, Meter Bridge can be treated with leniency.

7. sequence in the gear drive, all the spindle tip and small gears on both sides need to be polished.

8. the tendency to escape the banner claw swing, it must be fixed clip version control, not a nail or bolt.

9. at the request of the escapement, escape wheel be lighter weight. Large escape wheel thickness of not more than 0.16mm, and the escape wheel diameter less than 18mm a thickness of not more than 0.13mm. Subject to its locking surface polished.

10. all the movement required to have shock device.

11. in the refining movement, the ratchet and crown wheel size regulations required mode.

12. do not use wire springs.



7. Observatory show

mechanical watch every day are usually tolerable error is 15 seconds, the Observatory table special attention to movement, material and workmanship, the error will be reduced to 5 seconds per day . Is the result of official Swiss chronometer testing organizations Observatory (COSC) passed the inspection with high precision watches. COSC were in Geneva, Switzerland, Biel and La Chaux-de-Fonds has three testing centers. Geneva, an average day test from 12 thousand to 15 thousand watches, the largest number; other two tests a day on average from 15 thousand to 20 thousand watches. Watch in subjects, about 2-3% of the watches would be subjected to elimination. Observatory to obtain proof (The Swiss Official Chronometer Control), each table must be continuous only 16 days to accept a different test temperature and location. Since the smaller size of the table, making the higher difficulty, so according to table size shell diameter and surface area can be divided into more than 20 mm shell diameter or surface area greater than 314 square mm and less than or equal to the former two criteria.

book

* chronometer testing and evaluation of the project:

average daily speed, average speed of change, the maximum speed changes, the speed difference in different locations, the biggest difference in speed, temperature values, sustained speed of seven. Each test had a reference value, as long as the test results within the standard value, even if qualified. As the test is only by testing, so even for the same two tables, the test results in the figures may also have a number of gaps.



chronometer testing process is very standard; from day to observe the state of the table after the show in the 24 hours difference, poor record is the date. The daily deterioration in seconds, the positive and negative sheet speed. Deterioration in the first ten days the average daily rate shall be changed. The date of the first ten days every two days difference between the arithmetic mean of the difference is the average speed of change; gap between the largest difference between the two groups is the maximum speed of change. The speed difference between different locations is to take the first two days and the ninth, 10 days average daily rate of change of the difference, the maximum speed difference is another 10 days before the average daily rate difference with the largest difference. Usually can not be interrupted in the test, only the tenth day can be suspended due to demand.

during the test temperature must be maintained at 23 degrees Celsius, the temperature error of no more than once, only one day to eight degrees in the 10th, the 13th day is set at 38 degrees, each degree obtained The average daily rate of change in value is the value of temperature. The speed refers to the ongoing the last day of the first two days the difference between the average daily rate.

test period, there are special provisions watch position. In the first, second, fourth, 15 days, the surface of the vertical three DESHIL, 6:00 upward; third, four days, three vertically upward. Fifth, six, vertical three down, nine upwards. Seventh, eight days on the level of face. 9th to 13 days is to level down.

each only chronometer certificate not only provides that all test data for identification purposes, the table has a different number Observatory. However, most multi-table plants remain in the original certificate Observatory, consumers are getting more factory-made table that card. Some watch a "Chronometer" word, it means that it passes through Switzerland, the official (COSC: Controle officiel suisse des chronometres) test qualified.

8. watch brand rating categories (the same class in alphabetical order)

* The following is a more authoritative watch foreign magazine survey categories is based watch brand, grinding process, precious metals integrated content, production, history and culture, the brand's average price of all products, for consumer groups, appreciation rate, always on the watch industry and the contribution of the invention depend.

1. Extra table: noble-class luxury, rare treasures handed down. The production of ultra-complex menu known for, the perfect hand-polished, fully display the technical strength of the table factory, brand high gold content, yield very little, the money may not buy. Price more than a few tens of million to 10 million range.

? Patek Philippe Patek Philippe

? Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet

? Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin

? Lange A. LANGE & SOEHNE

? Breguet Breguet

? Girard Perregaux Girard-Perregaux (complex models)

? Blancpain Blancpain (complex models)

? Athens Ulysse Nardin (complex models)

? Falanmule FRANK MULLER (complex models)

? Haojue ROGER DUBIUS

? Glashütte GLASHUETTE ORIGINAL

? Parmigiani PARMIGIANI

2. a class of first class: the rich level of supreme works of art, technical highlights, technological excellence, the ultimate high-precision grinding, unique style, the top brand of high appreciation potential. Price ranges from the tens of thousands to millions.

? product family Jaeger LeCoultre

? Rolex Rolex

? count Piaget

? Cartier Cartier

? IWC nations

? Girard Perregaux Girard-Perregaux (general section)

? Athens Ulysse Nardin (general section)

? Blancpain Blancpain (general section)

? Falanmule FRANK MULLER (general section)

? Glashütte GLASHUETTE ORIGINAL (GUB39 movement female watches)

? Chopin Chopard

a class of second class: (front-line brand high-end table)

? OMEGA OMEGA

? Panerai PANERAI

? Zenith ZENITH

? Kunlun CORUM

? Dannilusi DANIEL ROTH

? Zunda GERALD GENTA

? KELEK (Discontinued, acquired by Breitling)

? joint UNION (German brand, was acquired Glashütte)

? rainbow CHRONOSWISS

? Yubao EBEL?

? Du He Xiao Teng DUBEY & SCHALDENBRAND

3. Type II Grade: A senior ETA movement as a basis for a certain transformation and the grinding process or design to highlight the high-end brands partial. Prices range from thousands to hundreds of thousands.

? Breitling Breitling

? Tudor Tudor

? Tag Heuer TAG HEUER

? Paco PAUL PICOT

? Malibu BAUME & MERCIER

? Amy MAURICE LACROIX

? Bvlgari BVLGARI

? Hublot HUBLOT

? where Jurgen VULCAIN

? Xiao Burstein ALAIN SILBERSTEIN

? Yibo He EBERHARD

? Porsche PORSCHE DESIGN (eterna OEM design win)

? MARTIN BRAUN

? Ike Po IKEPOD (designer of the table, the majority of the Observatory level)

? VENTURA (designer of the table, the majority of the Observatory level)

Type II second: (wire in the high-end, brand-Unique)

? radar RADO

? Longines Longines

? soman Revue Thommen

? Movado MOVADO

? still America XEMEX

? Bote Lai Perrlet

? eterna ETERNA

? Swarovski Eden Schwarz Etienne

? flying rudder disabilities FORTIS

? U.S. anti-China MINERVA

? Jacques JACQUES ETOILE

? DANIEL-JEAN RICHARD

? Tai Ma TUTIMA

? Sinn SINN

? NIVREL (a few also used LEMANIA8810 brand)

? MUEHLE

? NOMOS

? Rainer RAINER BRAND

? prominent HANHART

? Secretary Tova STOWA (JOERG SCHAUER)

? SOTHIS

? Po Sing TEMPTION

4. three categories: the ETA movement-based high-end brand, part of the movement when the parts go through the grinding precision. Mostly for the entry-level selection, price more than 5 million or less.

? Howley when the ORIS

? Tissot Tissot

? Hamilton HAMILTON

? Mido MIDO

? Zeno ZENO

? MARCELLO C

? DAVOSA

? LIMES

? KAUFMANN

? LACO

? RAYMOND WEIL Raymond Weil

? Montblanc MONTBLANC

5. four categories: The ETA-based movement in the low-end brand, part of the movement through the basic grinding. Good quality, affordable, price of more than 2 million or less.

? plum Titoni

? Enicar ENICAR

? Swatch SWATCH (Switzerland's largest watch group)

? Santos SANDOZ

? Rome ROAMER

? Cima Cyma

? by bo BOREL

? 100 waves and more Pronto

? Yi Qihua OGIVAL

? when the degree of DOXA

? Nivada NIVADA

? Ollmar Olma

? Bulova BULOVA

? Certina CERTINA

? love Boss epos

? Junghans JUNGHANS

? Bo Laishi Bell & Ross

? Boer BALL

? part of the fashion brand carrying ETA movement table (such as ck, BURBERRY, GUCCI, Dunhill, etc.)

6. five categories: number of Japanese mechanical watch movement-based and multi-function quartz, optical kinetic class watches, quality assurance and good value for money price than 1 thousand.

? Seiko SEIKO (part of the high-end included four categories)

? Citizen Citizen

? Oriental (Shuangshi) ORIENT

? Casio CASIO

? your flower CREDOR (part of the high-end included in the 4 categories)

? Song SUUNTO Extension

? Polar POLAR

? poljot Russian flight alarm, Rostock, etc.

7. six categories: China table, the price more than 5 thousand less. Such tables were used to raise, and now should return to the status it deserved, but I hope one day to see a class list of Chinese-made brand.

? Beijing beijing

? Shanghai shanghai

? seagulls, etc. ... ...

* Note: The above reference to the Swiss watch brands listed in magazines, most mechanical watches. There are several categories brands were not included in the table:

1. most of the independent tabulation of works: because as Falanmule have a scale, and arbitrary, and have a complex functional models, there are simple models, not easy to assess. If Jiaoda Yu daughter both difficult to get Tourbillon also add a signature ETA core surface.



2. not for the Friends of the domestic and even international table familiar brand, promote a relatively low profile, focusing on a small circle. Such as: GRAHAM; URBAN JUERGENSEN; KURTH (Germany family watch the master, the old movement with a limited inventory capacity table); HARWOOD (invented automatic rotor table old brand), BOVET Bovet. Some unknown source movement, quality assessment is difficult.

3. fashion jewelry stationery brand table: not to create known for watches and clocks, and more asked people to contract, and the quality uneven. Such as the Dunhill; Montblanc; BUCHRER Bucherer (table its name); HARRY WINSTON; TIFFANY Tiffany; Louis Vuitton; Chanel; GUCCI Gucci; ESPRIT so. Such a great table in the domestic confusing, it was considered good form document good clothes certainly good, although some brands of table work excellent, movement Ye Hao, but my point is: as a table of people do not understand buy non-professional table brand. Like wearing a Rolex, Rolex factory if the cap is also wearing a souvenir, like I would feel silly. I think that the entire body to wear a brand of people are not employees are not commodities.

4. plethora of quartz watch brand, with the exception of several influential things are missing. ETA usually higher than the Japanese core grade core. Are considered the standard of five or six classes.

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